Wednesday, September 14, 2016

Rope which rope??????

Depending on what you are planning will influence which ropes will be best to bring

Single Pitch Sport.
For the vast majority of routes a “single” 60m will be adequate. Where the pitches are long, a secondary lower off is usually in place so a 60m rope can still be used. If you want to climb some of the harder routes at Rincon Bello, Cabazon or Wildside, you should consider a thinner “single” 80m.

Multi Pitch sport.
A “single” 60m will do for most routes. Most route are geared for 30m pitches, so ab’ing off should be OK. Check the descent description of your chosen routes some areas have communal descents which may require two ropes for longer ab’s. Via Gene and the other sport climbs at Cabazon are an example.

Sea cliff Toix.
A “single” 60m rope is good for all pitches. I suggest an old “single” or “static” 60m for the ab’ in and leave it in place. These routes could be done with half 50m ropes, for ab’ing in and then pulled. But this is not recommended the ab’ bolts are usually not set up for this and it leaves you without an escape route.

Multi/pitch traditional mountain routes.
Puig Campana, for two people most routes are good to climb with a “single” 60m, but escaping may prove difficult. For three people half 50m are slightly too short to run easier pitches together so half or twin 60m are better, which also means escaping is more straight forward.

The Seria Bernia has nothing more than 20m ab’s so a 40m single is ok.
Realet. Best to climb on 50m or better 60m half ropes, solely for the ab’ at the end.
Realet into Castells. I would always recommend two ropes of at least 60m
All other ridges 60m single.

For all the popular canyons a thin 45m static is long enough. You could use a dynamic rope, but it will wear super fast and you’ll spend half the day coiling it.

Deep water solo

Get real! It’s called solo for a reason and no access via ropes are necessary.    

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