Monday, February 11, 2013

To bolt or not to bolt

Bolting "Wots a matterbooboo 6c"

OK so the ethic of the Costa Blanca is bolted sport climbs. The drill is red hot with 8 new sport lines from 4 to 6c+ grades to be confirmed! More lines have been bolted today by the Oranges!!!! A small traditionally protected section is also being cleaned with two 70m grade 4/5 routes so far.

Don't bear left 6a
Bear Sector, lines from the left are, Basically a bear 6c, Don't bear left 6a, project, Wots a Matterbooboo 6c and Bumptastic
New years day 5+

Basically a bear 6c

The grand clean up has finally finished with the help of a very large trailer. Three this full and eight smaller trailers full and one flat trye from running over some rubbish later and you can now see the trees. The place is starting to look like it should.

The clean up

The clean up fights back

Wednesday, January 30, 2013

More Work and LOADS of Wind and not from Rich!

We have now lived onsite for over 2 weeks. I can honestly say that it has not been easy, and that is mainly down to some fierce winds and not of the bottom type!

We spent a few nights in the van but after been kept awake been rocked quite violently we thought we would move into the small room downstairs for some piece and quiet.

That room is right next to the massive water tank in the corner of the house so that didnt last long either! We moved upstairs once we had a new window to let in some light and air!

Jonathan our long term "Orange"and Ben my youngest son spent some time with me painting the lounge and kitchen so we have a cozy place to sit at night and watch TV. Here are some before and afters shots.

After, with wood burner and all my crap!
Quite a bit of clutter

Check out the beams, and dogs sleeping in the sun

Old cupboard with doors

No doors and painted red inside. check out the beams again!
I must admit to enjoying the peace and quiet though, not a noise can be heard from anywhere, no barking dogs, no cars, no neighbours for miles. The drive to and from The Orange House is around half an hour on some horrible roads but I guess it worth it.

Rich has been busy bolting new routes up there and making good the new window at the front of the house. I will post more photos next week to show the changes as they go along.

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

New Orange Farmhouse

It was a hot August day and nothing much to do apart from chill on the beach and read a book! Rich was very bored but just about hanging in, waiting for September when the climbers returned and he had people to play with.

Now I have always fancied a small studio apartment down on the beach front at Villa Joyosa and just did a quick google to fill some time, and it does not hurt to dream! The search was in Spanish and I asked to be shown houses for sale in Villa Joyosa, you can imagine my surprise when top of the links was for "milanucios" which is the Spanish "gumtree", and a small photo showed a mountain range that I thought I had seen before.

Passing the ipad to Rich to take a look he said "that is Sella, in fact I know that house, its up at Sector Final". "Hmmm" said I, "not really a beach front location". The following day I decided to look up the link again and suggested as we had nothing else to do why don't we take a drive up with the dogs and have a look around. Tony Pearson a friend was over from the UK for a short break and said he would come too, just for a nosy around of course.

Squeezed in the Rav, dogs and all, we set off up the road to Sella that we knew so well. Ignoring the private road sign this time, we continued past Sector Final and after a few new turns we took a left along an almond lined private path and met this view!

Truely breathtaking, we all said at the same time "we need to buy this house". A quick phone call to the agent and a meeting was arranged for later that day, Tony had a flight booked back to blighty that night so we had to move fast.

Little did we know that we would have to wait until December until we could finally sign, but it was a great belated Christmas present and we collected the keys on the 28th.

The house had been used for years as a weekend hunting lodge, the first thing we wanted to do was pull down the metal structure they had erected at the front, we wanted to let more sun into the house during the winter and will put up some nice shades when the summer gets here.

Metal in place, but not for long!
Half way through removal!

What a view?
More light was needed upstairs so we added 2 new windows, one at the front and one at the side. The original house was built without windows upstairs, just large openings front and back. This was as the upstairs was made to dry out the almonds, they would be laid out all over the floor and the wind would blow over them.

Was a door now a window

This was the old opening for the wind to dry the almonds, now a  window

The large pink building which at the moment is a garage and store room will shortly become an 8 person bunkroom with lounge and small kitchen. Camping will be available once we have sorted a shower block. Have you spotted how close the building is to the crag, you will not have to go far in a morning to go climbing......

Here are a few more random shots for the views which really need to be seen to be believed!

Sunday, September 23, 2012

The Summer has Gone!

Not quite sure where it's gone, but it's definitely gone and so has DWS Fest!

I've been really busy trying to put together a Costa Blanca DWS Mini Guide. But unfortunately the Mini Guide has grown into a not so "Mini" Guide.  So for the Festival I decided to concentrate on one area. Cala Moraig, which now stands at 22 pages. Follow the link below to access it.

Many new routes have been added at Moraig, Toix and Ambolo over the summer. Mini Guides to follow, if you are coming out and need some info before they're published, drop me an email and I'll send you a proof!

Don't dispair if you missed the DWS Fest, the weather and sea state should be good for another 6-8 weeks. There are still some open projects, if you're hard as nails!

Monday, June 18, 2012


Warning! we found this equipment in our local "everything" store last week. It was hidden in the key rings and lighters section. I knew it was really wrong to have the photo of the climber and the words "belay device".

I would hope that no new climbers would think it was ok to use. Scary thought really :0(

They cost 90 cents each or a little more.

Do not climb with this equipment!

Sunday, May 27, 2012

Deep Water Solo Festival 2012

The 9th September will be the start date for this years festival for The Costa Blanca.

Many new lines are open ranging from 6a. up to 8a. Back up floating around this year will be a small rib, various kayaks and a small sailboat.

Options range from hire yourself a car and just booked accommodation or take a full package and we will arrange transport each day and an airport pickup.

Party nights at The Orange House with BBQ and slacklining over the pool of course!!!

Saturday, December 31, 2011

Happy New Year!

What a great month December has been. 

The new crag is coming along with 14 new lines, an outstanding project, and space for perhaps the same again. Grades from 4 to 7b so far. We ran out of spits (the bit that goes into the rock). The supplier said they'd had a big sale last week someone came in and bought a box of 100. I said I didn't know who that may have been, but could I order another two boxes please ;O) Standby for topos!  

Mikey Robertson is over for Christmas and New Year, but more importantly is was his birthday on the 24th. So what better way to celebrate than to go to a new crag, bolt a new route, then climb it! We weren't the first there, one other line has been bolted at 7a. But they may be scope for another few hundred routes there.

Mikey on  "Hippo bath day" 6b/+ (Sella)

Castellets Ridge in two days!

Yes you heard right, and before you ask no it wasn't my idea! El Capitan Thompson is the guilty party. We managed to complete 7kms of ridge in two days possibly one of the hardest and scariest things I've done in Spain. On both nights we climbed well after dark, the weather was very kind being in the low teens. Not so cold that we couldn't function after dark and not too hot that we had to carry extra water.

With only 2km left, most of which I have done before, another half day should see us completed. Tony Pearson and I will finish it tomorrow, making it an all Army traverse.
I will be producing a topo for the ridge in the near future so watch this space and


I managed to complete my project at the awesome new crag, "Beautiful Corner", 7c ticked on the second day. A good way to end the year. The new project 7c+ is much harder and may have to be a longer term project for me.

As the sun sets for the last time in 2011   Happy new year!