Wednesday, October 14, 2009

New routes for all grades, and we really mean that!

Steeper than the Wildside and not in any guidebook, the Colosseo area above Sella had its first route bolted 4 years ago and slowly new routes have been appearing since.

With only 10 routes so far and massive potential this area is certainly worth a mention. Routes start at 7c so warm up before you arrive :0)

Rich Mayfield on Colloseo 7C

Echo Valley 1.5 we mentioned on here a while ago, however it has seen a little new action. This area is between Echo 1 and 2 hence the original name! (directions in Rockfax guide). 18 routes at the moment starting at a 3, yes thats correct we bolted some 3´s, great to get a feel for the Costa Blanca rock. This area has proved very popular with the Spanish and visiting climbers. The topo is behind the bar at The Orange House, or email Sam for a copy (she will ask for a donation to the bolt fund or mountain rescue).

Anni on Xmas which is a 5

Now for those that like to get wet, Rich has been busy at the Toix sea cliffs. This area also has a new topo which you can collect from behind the bar, however access to this area really needs a boat. We will be arranging something for the DWS Fest next September. 24 Routes from 5SO to potential 8s. SPLASH!!!


Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Winter Climbing Dates

Improvers Level One........Swanage..........3 days...£360...19th Oct
Sun Traditional Climbing...Costa Blanca...5 days...£485....24th Nov
Dartmoor touching Rock....Dartmoor........3 days...£360....10th Dec
Improvers Level Two........Costa Blanca...5 days..£485.....14th Jan
Old Man of Hoy and more..Orkneys..........2 days..£260.....22nd July

Thursday, October 1, 2009

The Orkneys - what amazing rock!

More than just The Old Man!

Yesnaby Castle area

When Sam suggested we go back up to do The Old Man of Hoy, I was a little apprehensive, water proofs, stretchy salapets and brave pills were at the top of the list. But it couldn´t have been nicer!

Whilst most of Scotland was under grey rain clouds they mostly missed us and between what little rain that fell we didn´t loose a single days climbing.

Mikey making it look way too easy!

Mikey Robertson joined us for the first week, neither of us really knowing what to expect from the local crags of Yesnaby. The tides were perfect for climbing but a little low for DWS, but this didn´t stop Mikey ticking most solo-able routes as DWS´s, including Dragon Heart E5 6b or F7b for the solo. We even managed a few new lines!

Rich on a 3* HVS at Yesnaby Castle area

An insitu tyrolean to Yesnaby Castle, proved a great hit with the clients, even the routes back up the headland are 3 stars. Every time we did a great climb we thought that the best route there until we did the next route that is.

Marcus escaping the water on the tyrolean

The quality of the sandstone and the lines is just superb.

Client no.1 the lovely Sophie before the climb!

All the clients managed to get to the top of the Old Man. I conceived a cunning plan to avoid the Fumar vomit, by sending Heather up first (she proved very absorbant) we used her like a human shield which was very effective. Allowing the rest of the party to continue vomit free. So a big thanks to Heather, and I hope the green and yellow bits have come out of your hair now.

Sophie on the way down!