Mad dogs and Englishmen

Mad Dog at Echo valley is E7 6c gets the notional grade of F8a. Or does it?

Yesterday, after cleanly tope roping the route first try and a gear inspection on the way down, I decided to lead the route. The climb went very well and I topped out with power to spare. The only regret is that I didn’t onsight it, something I’m certain is well with my ability.

So how does this compare to other routes I’ve done recently; Lynch at Ansteys was E6 6b now F7b+ is about the same length but more sustained and has more difficult moves. Devonshire cream E5 6a is more serious and more committing. The route Caribbean Blue is immensely more serious, committing, three times longer and with harder moves.

The route was originally given E8 6c by Mark Edwards in the 2001 Rockfax and downgraded in the latest to E7. I feel aggrieved that I lost the onsight due to this ridiculous over grading. At the end of the day it is a brilliant 3 star route I should have climbed years ago. I´m going to offer the grade at a very soft touch E6 6a and notional sport grade of easy 7b.

Gaz Parry is joining us for the new year and he´s psyched for some hard stuff on trad , watch this space................

New route New grade

Xtremely Mild Ard Severe

After the recent controversy on UKC about the validity of the E grade system, particularly in the upper reaches of E7 to E12 where most of us operate, it is now vitally important that a new system is invented at the soonest opportunity.

Today Rich Mayfield lead a route and without influence from Climbe Magazine or The South Face gave it the unprecedented grade of X-MAS.

This is his Story:
“I first noticed the line about two years ago, and it captivated me, I become preoccupied with it’s moves. Being instant and spontaneous, just like tree climbing, before it becomes tedious or boring. “

After virtual abseil, (standing at the bottom and visualizing abseiling) he virtually pre-practiced the crux moves from his virtual rope.

The laughably poor protection is two sky hooks both were placed on lead, but not tied off as this would have lowered the grade. The lower of the two is good but too low to protect a ground fall from the crux, the higher hook is particularly poor. See photos below.


He used two brand new Petzl Tinzl 30mm ropes, as these are the only ropes he trusted on such an audacious lead. Danger Mouse Mountaineering supplied 34 bouldering mats which were piled 8 high, this unfortunately meant that the sitting start was not possible. But he did visualize doing it before he got on the route in order to get the full X-MAS tick.

He spoke to several hundred notable climbers who had been on the line earlier and gathered vital information about the moves, hidden pockets, specific to route training program, protection and implemented all aspects into his ascent.

This on-sight (no prior knowledge) ascent (completing the route all of it) is undoubtedly the cleanest to date, it´s difficult to image a cleaner style, perhaps blind folded or-and with rocks in your pockets will be the next leap forwards!

Rich is sponsored by
Tinzl ropes, Danger Mouse Mountaineering, Debalt boltguns and Fatboy chocolate bars.

New Holiday

Following the recent growth in popularily of non climbing activities over on the Costa Blanca, we have decided to put together an "Adventure Week".

This will include: Via Ferratas ascents Gorge walk Ridge walk/scramble easy rock climb (3)

All specialist equipment is provided. For further details contact sam@theorangehouse.net

Climbing Academy

Last week Gaz Parry and Rich Mayfield visited the Climbing Academy soon to open on the 9th Dec in Bristol.

This is a dedicated bouldering wall, located not far from Undercover Rock. I spoke to Paul Twomey company director for the Academy about the facility. They've spent a lot of money creating what will be a fantastic modern wall, yet with a friendly atmosphere. Corners, aretes and grooves are in evidence along with the more usual overhangs.

A large cafe area (with underfloor heating) will have power points for laptops and wifi connection. The coffee machine was just going in and by all accounts smells and tastes great! A treatment room for when you pull stuff, will ensure you get back on the wall quickly.

You can see for yourself at www.theclimbingacademy.com

Good Luck guys!!!!! Sam and Rich Orange