Orange House

Happy New Year!

2011-12-31T09:19:00.000-08:00

What a great month December has been.

The new crag is coming along with 14 new lines, an outstanding project, and space for perhaps the same again. Grades from 4 to 7b so far. We ran out of spits (the bit that goes into the rock). The supplier said they'd had a big sale last week someone came in and bought a box of 100. I said I didn't know who that may have been, but could I order another two boxes please ;O) Standby for topos!

Mikey Robertson is over for Christmas and New Year, but more importantly is was his birthday on the 24th. So what better way to celebrate than to go to a new crag, bolt a new route, then climb it! We weren't the first there, one other line has been bolted at 7a. But they may be scope for another few hundred routes there.

Mikey on "Hippo bath day" 6b/+ (Sella)

Castellets Ridge in two days!

Yes you heard right, and before you ask no it wasn't my idea! El Capitan Thompson is the guilty party. We managed to complete 7kms of ridge in two days possibly one of the hardest and scariest things I've done in Spain. On both nights we climbed well after dark, the weather was very kind being in the low teens. Not so cold that we couldn't function after dark and not too hot that we had to carry extra water.

With only 2km left, most of which I have done before, another half day should see us completed. Tony Pearson and I will finish it tomorrow, making it an all Army traverse.

I will be producing a topo for the ridge in the near future so watch this space and http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Orange-House/267418710706

Projects

I managed to complete my project at the awesome new crag, "Beautiful Corner", 7c ticked on the second day. A good way to end the year. The new project 7c+ is much harder and may have to be a longer term project for me.

As the sun sets for the last time in 2011 Happy new year!

The Gripper Clipper Awards

2011-10-27T08:57:00.000-07:00

The Gripper Clipper Awards (est 2004) are awarded to person or persons for services to comedy whilst climbing or attempting climb.

With over 10,000 user visits to the Orange House over the last 8 years it's no wonder our guests have had the odd thrill and spill. Cantina Marina hosted a Morroccan food night at the house, with most guests attending what better time to present the award.

I've been promising for several years to document this esteemed award's history with a page on the main web site. This is now under construction.

So until that page is completed here's the latest installment from the White Coast of Epics.....

Bertie's Blunder
Bertie (retired solicitor from LMC so I will be careful with what I write) was attempting to second a route, was unable to do so and was subsequently lowered back to the ground.

Sam (the leader) then threaded the belay and prepared to be lowered back to the ground by Bertie. Having communicated with Bertie his intentions, Sam was lowered the 30m to the ground safely if a little fast. Bertie, with a face similar to that of a bull dog chewing a wasp and no skin left on his fingers, turn to Sam and said "I forgot to put the friction plate on!"

Congrats Bertie! You join an elite band poeple who are entitled to use the letters "GCA" after their names.

Other award holders are Helen and Chris for attempting to walk the Bernia Ridge North to South when it runs East to West. Sharky and Ex boy friend for being rescued by boat from the Toix Sea Cliffs, only to realise they were now stranded at the port of Altea with no shoes, no money, no car keys and the car still at Toix anyway. Paul and his missus for taking thirty one and a half hours to climb Puig Campana. The list goes on.....

So if you wish to climb on the Costa Blanca and want to avoid the "GCA" title, the following dates are available for improvers (F4 to F6c) 27th November, 22nd December and 16th January. These are 5 days courses, selfcatering and transport. Email sam@theorangehouse.co.uk for further details.

Autumn on the Costa

2011-10-19T02:17:00.000-07:00

We spent the long hot summer in the Alpes. September was still very warm and the traditional DWS venues have seen some action and are becoming very popular by local and visiting climbers. The hot weather has continued well into October allowing us to push out about 40 new DWS lines from 5 up to projects likely to be 8a or harder.

"Daniel" 6c+ Rich Mayfield on the first ascent.

My fav new route is Daniel (6c+/7a), named after my grandson who was in the kayak during the first ascent. This leads into a fantastic traverse line of Ailis 7b ish so far. 60m long the odd loose hold and the pump means this line is still a project.

"Curse ya fur breathin", an open project likely to be 7c/8a.

"Curse ya fur breathing, ya slacked jawed idiot!" Pictured above has seen manys attempts over the Autumn with slow progress through the roof. It's still warm enough that I'm itching to get back today, so as soon as I've finished typing this I'm off. Wish me luck I may need it!

New DWS mini guide will be available from our web site next year, watch this space...

Hasta la Vista from the White Coast....

Easter at the Wild Side

2011-04-26T10:20:00.000-07:00

Easter was a mixed bag of weather, after a mini heat wave we did have a few days of rain, but it never rains at the Wild Side. You can always climb on the Costa!


Rich Mayfield resting on Ergometria 8a


Little Chris resting on Ergometria 8a

I've just taken Adam Hocking to the airport after a long and fruitful trip over the winter, he did complain he only had 8b's and above left to do at Wild Side.

A rainy day at the Wild Side need not be a wet day. Around 40 climbers from all over the world were cranking hard.

Mini Guides

2011-02-01T09:38:00.000-08:00

Well I've been really busy with the production a new Mini Guide for Castellets and up dating the Via Ferrata Mini Guide.

Castellets is one of our closest crags being only 8km from the Orange House with a 10 minute walk in. Mostly sport climbs with good gear. The ridges is 8 km long with crags on boths sides so there really is HUGE potential for new routes here.

There are some mixed routes, these are marked on the topos so you shouldn't get caught out. 30 odd climbs listed but have also done some new routes and the upper tiers aren't included yet. Watch this space.

This has been a bit of an effort because although I do enjoy doing them, I'd rather go climbing ;O) This includes updates on access where it's changed and included two more via ferratas, Les Marcjes and Xorrat de Cati. Both of these are availible from the main web page at http://theorangehouse.co.uk/gallery-2/pdf-page then follow the instructions.

Have fun!

New website and New houses....

2010-09-16T02:48:00.000-07:00

Well I think I started the new website in April, but learning a new piece of software is not easy when you are trying to look after The Orange House, 4 rental houses, 2 kids and 3 dogs!

We have lots of new sections and some great galleries, they show the Main Orange House, the village houses and some great climbing shots from around the area.

The Winter Climbing programme is now released which includes an Improvers Sport Climbing Course running over Christmas week, limited places so get in touch asap.

BMC Members now get a 10% discount, this joins the list with AMA members, AIM, students and teachers.

Stag and Hen Activity Weekends

2010-07-07T15:30:00.000-07:00

For years we have been running specialist Stag and Hen weekends but never really advertised them. After a very busy May this year and over 4 groups saying how it was the best holiday they ever had we thought maybe to was about time we told a few others what we do!

We have designed some special pages on the website to give you a better idea about what we can offer. The list of activities is endless and add to that the beachs, the bars, the private villa you would be hard pushed to find a better location to chill out with a group of friends...

EXCLUSIVE use of villa so no one telling you to be quiet and go to bed!
airport transfers
fully stock bar on arrival, BBQ
entertainment brought to the house

Rock climbing
Diving
Via Ferrattas
Scrambyling
Gorge Walking
Sea Kayaking
Horse riding
Mountain Biking
Road cycling
Bridge Swinging
Go Karts

The list really goes on and one, you choose the things you want to do and we do the rest and the stag or hen go free of charge.

Costs start from as little as £125 for a 3 night stay, so get in touch as we only have a few months to offer these weekends MAY and JUNE only!

sam@theorangehouse.co.uk

and hope that next year to run a few more.

NOTE: please dont worry that a group will be at the house if you book to stay! the house is booked exclusive so no one bothers anyone else!

Army Competition Boulders 2010

2010-05-27T02:53:00.000-07:00

Boulders in Cardiff was the venue last Thursday and Friday for the Army Mountaineering Association 2010 sport climbing championships.

Rich Mayfield and Olly Noakes taking full advantage of the rest, after the "Skymaster" style start, moving and suspended volumes which formed a 6m roof, then a further 10m of pumpy climbing on good holds which only enabled 4 competitors to top out.

The final was even longer, with quite possibly the longest run-out of any indoor wall right at the end of the route. Bargin! With a 10m roof on two suspended volumes at the start, Andy Long's route setting took full advantage of the Boulders Wall to produce some very out-landish climbs.

With over 200 personel attending this is one of the best event on the AMA calendar. The Orange House sponsored this event and we're looking forward to seeing the winners out in Spain for some tufa-tugging-tastic fun!

New Website

2010-04-24T14:34:00.001-07:00

www.theorangehouse.co.uk
www.theorangehouse.co.uk

From beginners to masterclass!

2010-02-26T10:05:00.000-08:00

This year we have excelled ourselves! From large beginner groups climbing on friendly, well bolted and road side cliffs, to coaching on some really hard climbs. The Costa Blanca has it all. Including the weather!

Some crags really are bolted for beginners which means that large groups get the best possible and safest instruction. With the absolute minium of lost time, Echo Valley above is 15 minutes drive from the Orange House and road-side.

Bolted as a "novice crag" the routes start at sport grade 3 (V Diff) so everyone with or without rock shoes will be able to achieve success on a rock climb!

Effective demonstration of difficult rock movements form the back bone of our coaching courses

from sport grade 3 to 8a. Below, Rich Mayfield demonstrates dropping knee on a Coach/Improvers Course.

Precise foot work is essential for any route, but when it gets steep eliminating mistakes is crucial to save time, finger strength and arm power.

Once his foot is correct on the hold the movement begins with all four limps still in contact with the rock.

When the postion is stable he builds the power starting with his feet and using his arms to steer the move and add that last bit of momentum.

At the optimum moment the movement is made with little or no change to the climbers position.

La Pedriza

2010-02-04T05:02:00.000-08:00

OK, I'm guilty but we all do it! A brand new guidebook in my hands all I do is flick through looking at all the pretty pictures.

One photo doesn’t seem to make any sense. I put it down to a weird camera angle and continue flicking, and again this time from a different angle. I find the previous photo and compare. My first thought, “I got to climb that!” Closely followed by my second thought, “why hasn’t that fallen down yet?”

A closer inspection of the topo reveals the route name, Fulgencio 6a and 4 or 5 pitches and M2! Que? What’s that then? Lets face it anything with a “2” can’t be that hard, can it? Quick inspection of the grade description reveals, hey these Spanish aren’t as daft as they look, it’s like an E grade thingy. MO is dead safe. M1 easy protection. M2 difficult protection and M3 advises you not to fall, ever! That probably means there’s a bolt every 4m instead of 2m I can handle that, after all I’ve climbed on the Slate.

The wall is called El Hueso, meaning bone, without doubt named after the 2 or 3 metre wide giant rib of rock that Fulgencio takes. For the first three of the four pitches it is completely detached from the main face. Leaning at a gravity-defying angle for almost 90 meters one gigantic solid ribbon of rock.

El Hueso is situated at the head of the valley 3 kms away and 500m higher than the parking, but don’t let this put you off. Good paths leads though shady woods, never far from the bubbling waters and plunge pools of the River Mayadilla, until the Refugio is reached, sadly only open on weekends. The full extent of the cliffs can now to admired, usually accompanied with a dozen eagles catching thermals above the cliffs.

The main face of El Hueso is dwarfed by the imposing El Pajaro just to it’s left. As we neared the crag two tiny climbers bring the face into perspective. It’s a lot bigger than first impressions suggested.

A wooded path leads up to the base of The Bone. What an awesome line with a bolt every 10 or 12 metres. Maybe M2 does deserve a little more respect after all. Geared up in a flash and throw myself at the line, which promptly throws me back to the floor narrowly missing a tree. With photos in the guide like that, it´s reasonable to expect a little polish, even so I don’t normally fall off 6a. Brushing myself down I go again, “grab my foot quick” the polish is over come by combined tactics. It must be a high gravity day!

Only 6 more metres to the first bolt, padding up on absolutely no holds, the bolt brings welcome safety and a sigh of relieve. The slab continued at 80 degrees for a further 10 metres before the next bolt, and utterly smooth, no chance of any natural protection. I spy a hold in the middle. My mind works over time, “OK, might be hard to the hold, but then it´s got to be easy to the next bolt”, chalking my hands and stepping up, “I could fall before the hold, that’s OK I’ll just run”, gingerly padding my way towards the security of my hold, “but after the hold I must not fall, because I’ll deck out!” The sanctuary of the hold appears, fingers search the surface of the rock, “shit no hold just 75 degree rock.” Nervous chalking, “It’ll be a good foot hold,” pulling on imaged holds and a high step to the sloppy foothold. “Relax, breath idiot,” I rest my head against the rock and consider my options, “Sam’s much lighter than me, so a fall from here could pick her up off the ground which would allow me to deck it. OK so backing off by jumping is now not an option. I could down climb?” Chalk marks the imaged holds I’d used to get myself so committed. “Ok no option either.” My subconscious kicks in, my mind searches for the Zone, breathing relaxing and my mind becomes void of conscious thought, my limps move without permission, no sane mind would have given permission, non hold to non hold and smear to smear. I arrive at a tiny ledge and a bolt.

“I could just lower off from here, back off it.” My conscious had been busy in my absence. “No way am I backing off a 6a, Sam will rib me forever, and besides I’ve done the hard bit!” With the next bolt only 2 metres away, I should have guessed the crux was yet to come. Stupidly thin moves on polished rock, easily over come with a quick foot in a sling. I pondered my chance of finishing the route at the stance. Aiding on a 6a she’ll rib me anyway.

With a snug rope Sam arrived at the stance, wide eyed, and expressing disbelief in the grade and her ability to climb 6a on granite slabs.

The next pitch eases in angle and has a really good wire 5 metre above the stance and then bolts friendly placed at 4 metres apart. Brilliant climbing to the next stance must be a big difference between 5 and 6a. Sam followed slightly happier.

An optical illusion made the third pitch look much steeper and scarier than reality, until truly massive ears of rock are reached and very easy but exposed ground leads to a large stance. Couldn’t help feeling the grades seemed a little out around here.

Now I’d memorized the topo before I left the ground, but the last pitch seemed vertical, green, and with the first piece of gear being the belay 40 metres away, maybe I should have given M2 more respect. Sure it was only a 4, but it looked like some hideous E5 5c. Scouting around I found a bolt ladder (bolts every 4 metres must be an M0), but the moves are too hard perhaps 6b (English), and I can’t clip them.

From the higher position I see the line I think Fulgencio takes, complete with 4 bolt spits without hangers, and the angle not as steep as first impression. I decided to give it ago.

The spits easily take wires and provided reasonable protection, and large hidden holds appeared on request. Piece of make!

Scrambling off to the left and 5 long abseils later, we’re back no terra ferma. Four Spanish climbers, who had been giggling at our antics, approached us, congratulating us on the ascent. Saying, “Not many people do the M2+ 7a variation start”.

What’s the area like? The Guadarrama Range, 50km North of Madrid, presents an uniquely rugged landscape. Lush green trees grow between a labyrinth of huge ochre granite domes and boulders. The highest peak Penalara (2,429m) often has snow well into the summer months, contrasting the warmth of the valley floor and feeding the plunge pools of the Majadilla River.

What’s the climbing? Immaculate granite slabs of various steepnesses with gravity defying rock architecture. But be warned it has a reputation! You won’t find many bolt ladders here, and the opportunities to place gear are far and few. A steady head for running it out and the ability to smear are important prerequisites. Once your head is tuned in the friction and the climbing is phenomenal. Boulders are everywhere and on the whole untouched!

When do I go? You could climb all year here, but during the winter months of November to February a light sprinkling of snow is not uncommon, the valley floor is at 1000m. Spring and Autumn are the best times. Or to escape the summer heat, just climb high and in the shade.

How do I get there? Most major airlines fly to Madrid. Try skyscanner.net to search for the cheapest flights. All the major car hire companies operate in Madrid, but once you’re there you don’t really need a car. Buses run daily from Madrid to Mazanares el Real, which is only 2km from the main climbing areas.

Where do I stay? The cheapest and most convenient options are camping at El Ortigal or the Hostal El Alcornocal both in the north of Maranares el Real. Wild camping in the Park is not permitted.

Local Amenities? Maranares has a climbing shop just off the main square, El Refugio on Pza de Postiguilli. The town also has a large super market, with a healthy sprinkling of cafes, bars and nice restaurants.

Guidebooks and maps?
A walking guide 1.25000 map (Spanish and English) at 9 euros ISBN 84-8090-160-8
Guia de Escalada La Pedriza by Ignacio Lujon & David Zapata ISBN 84-95744-46-5
Pedriza Guia de Deportiva by Luis Nararrete ISBN 84-96192-08-3

Costa Blanca Photo competition - watch this space

2010-01-28T08:40:00.001-08:00

Next week we will be starting a new photo competition to win some great Orange House prizes!

More details later so watch this space....

To get people in the mood take a look at this great shot taken late last year by a guest...

Can you tell what it is?

Don't Climb on the Costa Blanca!

2010-01-06T04:43:00.000-08:00

We don´t really mean don´t climb, so what are we talking about?

The Costa Blanca offers so much more than just rock climbing so why not take a look at the alternatives. In a new series of Mini Guides published by The Orange House, almost a whole months worth of days are described. The first one covers the Via Ferratas.

The first is called, "Via Ferratas of the Costa Blanca", which details the three main and very popular routes of El Ponoch, El Cid and Castello de Salvatierra.

Alternative finishes, offer great days of mountaineering, with scrambling and walking to rival anything found in the UK.

The beauty of these Via Ferratas are that they enable none climbers to experience the multi-pitch environment, with very little specialist skills.

Kenetic Impact Shock Absorbers (KISA) is essential equipment for these routes and are available to hire from The Orange House, along with helmets if needed. We can even offer guides or tuition for those who require it.
Anyone who would like a guide sent over to them to print out please send us an email

Great New DVD "Welsh Connections"

2009-11-01T12:57:00.000-08:00

Sam saw a trailer for this new video on UKC and posted on a thread saying " I think the JD clip is boring!”

After quickly realising who had produced the film she said a quick "sorry" and asked if she could have a copy to review the whole thing. A few days later a DVD winged its way from Wales to Devon. Sam’s big mouth does have its uses then.

I wasn’t quite sure what to expect having not heard anything about Daves new project, but I did know without doubt that it would be well filmed, and edited to his usual brilliant standards.

Welsh Connections takes a deep look into the Welsh climbing scene through the eyes of the best people to ask, the climbers who live there. Their mood, friendly rivalry and infectious enjoyment of Welsh climbing is so motivational and inspiring that I can’t help cursing Dave for releasing the film in the dead of winter. I want to go climbing there NOW!

Welsh Connections - trailer from Bamboo Chicken Productions on Vimeo.

For anyone who has ever climbed in Wales or aspires to climb there, this film is a “must see”! A fine blend of young and not so young local activists revelling in the diversity that Welsh climbing has to offer. One thing that struck me was that the majority of these crags are very secluded, very different from the “gladiator” type environment that the Peak offers. Anyone who has climbed at Gogarth or the Llyn will know what I am talking about.

There is one minor gripe, the bouldering sequences. To me bouldering just doesn’t make good TV, and is it only training for real climbing anyway ;O). On the plus side having the bouldering inserted between the climbing sequences, means old fuddy duddies like me, get to watch and appreciate that Wales has come of age when it comes to bouldering. Sam also pointed out that they make great natural intermissions, time to put the kettle on ;O)

With possibly the best music I have heard on any climbing video I’ll give it 5 out of 5. A must see for any who’s ever climbed in Wales. Or a must see for anyone who hasn’t climbed in Wales, you’ll want to go there!

We are sure that this will be played over and over again at The Orange House and a thanks to Dave and Lynwen for sending is the copy and sorry again for the words on UKC!

The Extras

To the Rainbow

I felt quite emotional watching this extra feature with Johnny Dawes and Paul Prichard climbing on the Rainbow Slabs. Light hearted in places, Paul is unable to belay Johnny with any degree of security, so Johnny climbs it anyway, trailing a rope mostly for the purpose of top roping Paul afterwards, rather than protecting the leader.

Listening to Paul talk about coming to terms with his accident and his return to climbing definitely pulled on my heart strings. How many times have you stood at the base of crag and had near misses with stone fall? There by the grace of God go the rest of us!

click here to ORDER THE VIDEO DIRECT

New routes for all grades, and we really mean that!

2009-10-14T08:12:00.000-07:00

Steeper than the Wildside and not in any guidebook, the Colosseo area above Sella had its first route bolted 4 years ago and slowly new routes have been appearing since.

With only 10 routes so far and massive potential this area is certainly worth a mention. Routes start at 7c so warm up before you arrive :0)

Rich Mayfield on Colloseo 7C

Echo Valley 1.5 we mentioned on here a while ago, however it has seen a little new action. This area is between Echo 1 and 2 hence the original name! (directions in Rockfax guide). 18 routes at the moment starting at a 3, yes thats correct we bolted some 3´s, great to get a feel for the Costa Blanca rock. This area has proved very popular with the Spanish and visiting climbers. The topo is behind the bar at The Orange House, or email Sam for a copy (she will ask for a donation to the bolt fund or mountain rescue).

Anni on Xmas which is a 5

Now for those that like to get wet, Rich has been busy at the Toix sea cliffs. This area also has a new topo which you can collect from behind the bar, however access to this area really needs a boat. We will be arranging something for the DWS Fest next September. 24 Routes from 5SO to potential 8s. SPLASH!!!

Winter Climbing Dates

2009-10-07T01:28:00.000-07:00

Improvers Level One........Swanage..........3 days...£360...19th Oct
Sun Traditional Climbing...Costa Blanca...5 days...£485....24th Nov
Dartmoor touching Rock....Dartmoor........3 days...£360....10th Dec
Improvers Level Two........Costa Blanca...5 days..£485.....14th Jan
Old Man of Hoy and more..Orkneys..........2 days..£260.....22nd July

The Orkneys - what amazing rock!

2009-10-01T07:12:00.000-07:00

More than just The Old Man!

Yesnaby Castle area

When Sam suggested we go back up to do The Old Man of Hoy, I was a little apprehensive, water proofs, stretchy salapets and brave pills were at the top of the list. But it couldn´t have been nicer!

Whilst most of Scotland was under grey rain clouds they mostly missed us and between what little rain that fell we didn´t loose a single days climbing.

Mikey making it look way too easy!

Mikey Robertson joined us for the first week, neither of us really knowing what to expect from the local crags of Yesnaby. The tides were perfect for climbing but a little low for DWS, but this didn´t stop Mikey ticking most solo-able routes as DWS´s, including Dragon Heart E5 6b or F7b for the solo. We even managed a few new lines!

Rich on a 3* HVS at Yesnaby Castle area

An insitu tyrolean to Yesnaby Castle, proved a great hit with the clients, even the routes back up the headland are 3 stars. Every time we did a great climb we thought that the best route there until we did the next route that is.

Marcus escaping the water on the tyrolean

The quality of the sandstone and the lines is just superb.

Client no.1 the lovely Sophie before the climb!

All the clients managed to get to the top of the Old Man. I conceived a cunning plan to avoid the Fumar vomit, by sending Heather up first (she proved very absorbant) we used her like a human shield which was very effective. Allowing the rest of the party to continue vomit free. So a big thanks to Heather, and I hope the green and yellow bits have come out of your hair now.

Sophie on the way down!

Anyone a member of a climbing club?

2009-06-12T12:59:00.000-07:00

Last month Rich was invited to do a slideshow by London Mountaineering Club. The night was a great success and we raised a further 265 pounds to add to the pot.

I cant believe that on the 13th July it will be the 2nd anniversary, seems like only yesterday when we spent the night in Chedder Gorge with the 60 routes ahead of us.

For those that don´t know what Hard Rock is please go to www.hardrockchallenge.blogspot.com

Anyone that is a member of a club that has the facility for a slide show please get in touch.

A summer of Fun!

2009-04-01T10:34:00.000-07:00

How many have The Old Man on their tick list?

Almost 2 years ago I took this photo of the Old Man through the clouds, it was an amazing day and I was more than a little sad that I had to stay behind and film from the headland. I was one half of the support crew for The Hard Rock Challenge, which saw Rich Mayfield and Mark Stevenson climb all 60 routes in the Ken Wilson book Hard Rock.

Simon had expressed a desire to climb the route the night before, one small problem we only had 2 helmets, a quick dash around the campsite found a nice bike helmet that would do the job. Taking the ferry in the mist was an amazing thing to do and the walk across to the top of the cliffs, seeing the Old Man rise up in front of us was a site I will never forget. After 40 minutes of climbing we had a break in the cloud and I started filming.

After a 2 year break we now have plans to return. We will be spending two weeks on the islands, taking in the amazing sites and hopefully I will get my chance to climb the amazing route, not wearing a bike helmet I must add!

Anyone care to join us?

Summer Diary Dates and Venues

Portland	Sport Improvers	£300	24^th April 3 days
Pembroke	Intro to Rock	£300	8^th May 3 days
Lands End & Sennen	Intro to Trad	£450	4^th July 5 days
Dartmoor Granite	Intro to Trad	£450	18^th July 5 days
Residential Youth Week	The Mill Devon	£200	9^th Aug 4 days

"Lands End Long Climb" - a great easy day out!

Rich held a 3 days Improvers at Portland in December (yes it was warm enough!) and here are a few words from Ben about how he found the course useful :-

Hi Rich

I thought you might like to know that I´ve really taken on board all the tips you imparted during the coaching weekend I had with you in Portland in December.

I´ve managed to put it all to good use and in the last few weeks at Brean Down, I´ve climbing a 6a+ onsight and repointed 2 6b+s and a 6c!

The most important lesson was the methodical and structured approach to preparing for each climb. It´s now second nature and really helps me to get in the right frame of mind.

Anyway. I though you would like to know that your coaching appears to have worked wonders! Thank Ben Browne.

Rich is also available for one to one guiding throughout the summer if the above dates dont work for you, email us for more information sam@theorangehouse.net

Residential Youth Week, second year

Last summer we held a Youth Week at The Mill in Devon for under 18´s, the week was great fun and everyone gain loads of great advice from Gaz Parry and Rich Mayfield. Full board accommodation, climbing and bouldering and free entry to The Hard Rock Festival at the end of the week. Places are limited so please get in touch to guarantee a place.

Everyone about to set their first boulder problem.

Big Changes, New Routes, discounts, New Managers..........

2009-01-28T12:14:00.000-08:00

Puig on Fire

Saturday 24th January will stick in the minds of quite a few people on the Costa Blanca. Over 20, 000 homes had to be evacuated when strong winds caused an electric pilon to fall over. The winds continued to be strong meaning the fire fighting helicopters couldn’t fly. The Orange House was without power for over 24 hours, but we didnt think we had to worry about the fire reaching us when they brought 1,000s of gas bottles down to the football field and horses came to stay on the bottom terrace. You can take a look at some of the videos on YouTube which shows the fire creeping around Puig, click the photo...

New Managers at The Orange House

January 2009 and new Managers arrive on the Costa, Gaz Parry and his partner Kate Mills (front page of Climb Mag this month) arrived with Joe. Visitors to the house in the past will remember the dogs and cats which now all live in Devon, however Joe is slightly bigger and more smelly. I am sure he would welcome the odd apple or carrot ( have you guessed what he is yet) Kate is well and truely in charge and things are running very well with new energy injected into the old house! Gaz is enjoying the sunshine and ticking lots of hard routes, I did wonder why Rich was so happy to have them both over to ryn the house.

Ticking Big Trad Numbers.....

Super G a trad E7/8 6c or 8a fell to Richard yesterday on his second attempt, Gaz on/sighted it, "we both feel E6 6b or 7b is appropriate" said Rich. Asteroid Storm E7 6b Gaz on/sighted and gave it the grade E4 6a. Several others have also had what maybe their second and third ascents. Gaz has the corrections book for Rockfax, so realistic grades will be posted shortly.If anyone is going over and wants to give any hard trad routes a go then get in touch with the boys and check the new grades first.

Gaz Parry on Asteroid Storm was E7 now E4 6a

New Easy road side Sport area

Rich has been busy bolting a new crag in between Echos 1 and 2, called Echo 1.5 funnily enough. The crag has two sector Alto (upper) and Abajo (lower) with 18 mostly very easy sports routes, this is already popular with the local Spanish climbers. The routes have modern equipment with double bolt chain lower offs. For topos email us, here a taster.

A large college group found out that Rich was naming routes at the crag and paid into the "bolt Fund" to choose a name, one guy named a route after his girlfriend, how sweet.

Discounts and roll back on prices & cheap flights....

Due to the credit crunch and the exchange rate we have dropped our prices to help those guests coming over from the UK. You can check out all the new discount bands on the website and get in touch to book. A website to check out for flights is Skyscanner, it allows you to put in your destination and it will show you all the airports can you can fly from and the cheapest flights.

Mad dogs and Englishmen

2008-12-19T14:58:00.000-08:00

Mad Dog at Echo valley is E7 6c gets the notional grade of F8a. Or does it?

Yesterday, after cleanly tope roping the route first try and a gear inspection on the way down, I decided to lead the route. The climb went very well and I topped out with power to spare. The only regret is that I didn’t onsight it, something I’m certain is well with my ability.

So how does this compare to other routes I’ve done recently; Lynch at Ansteys was E6 6b now F7b+ is about the same length but more sustained and has more difficult moves. Devonshire cream E5 6a is more serious and more committing. The route Caribbean Blue is immensely more serious, committing, three times longer and with harder moves.

The route was originally given E8 6c by Mark Edwards in the 2001 Rockfax and downgraded in the latest to E7. I feel aggrieved that I lost the onsight due to this ridiculous over grading. At the end of the day it is a brilliant 3 star route I should have climbed years ago. I´m going to offer the grade at a very soft touch E6 6a and notional sport grade of easy 7b.

Gaz Parry is joining us for the new year and he´s psyched for some hard stuff on trad , watch this space................

New route New grade

2008-12-12T13:10:00.000-08:00

Xtremely Mild Ard Severe

After the recent controversy on UKC about the validity of the E grade system, particularly in the upper reaches of E7 to E12 where most of us operate, it is now vitally important that a new system is invented at the soonest opportunity.

Today Rich Mayfield lead a route and without influence from Climbe Magazine or The South Face gave it the unprecedented grade of X-MAS.

This is his Story:
“I first noticed the line about two years ago, and it captivated me, I become preoccupied with it’s moves. Being instant and spontaneous, just like tree climbing, before it becomes tedious or boring. “

After virtual abseil, (standing at the bottom and visualizing abseiling) he virtually pre-practiced the crux moves from his virtual rope.

The laughably poor protection is two sky hooks both were placed on lead, but not tied off as this would have lowered the grade. The lower of the two is good but too low to protect a ground fall from the crux, the higher hook is particularly poor. See photos below.

He used two brand new Petzl Tinzl 30mm ropes, as these are the only ropes he trusted on such an audacious lead. Danger Mouse Mountaineering supplied 34 bouldering mats which were piled 8 high, this unfortunately meant that the sitting start was not possible. But he did visualize doing it before he got on the route in order to get the full X-MAS tick.

He spoke to several hundred notable climbers who had been on the line earlier and gathered vital information about the moves, hidden pockets, specific to route training program, protection and implemented all aspects into his ascent.

This on-sight (no prior knowledge) ascent (completing the route all of it) is undoubtedly the cleanest to date, it´s difficult to image a cleaner style, perhaps blind folded or-and with rocks in your pockets will be the next leap forwards!

Rich is sponsored by
Tinzl ropes, Danger Mouse Mountaineering, Debalt boltguns and Fatboy chocolate bars.

New Holiday

2008-12-04T02:42:00.000-08:00

Following the recent growth in popularily of non climbing activities over on the Costa Blanca, we have decided to put together an "Adventure Week".

This will include: Via Ferratas ascents Gorge walk Ridge walk/scramble easy rock climb (3)

All specialist equipment is provided. For further details contact sam@theorangehouse.net

Climbing Academy

2008-12-02T06:15:00.000-08:00

Last week Gaz Parry and Rich Mayfield visited the Climbing Academy soon to open on the 9th Dec in Bristol.

This is a dedicated bouldering wall, located not far from Undercover Rock. I spoke to Paul Twomey company director for the Academy about the facility. They've spent a lot of money creating what will be a fantastic modern wall, yet with a friendly atmosphere. Corners, aretes and grooves are in evidence along with the more usual overhangs.

A large cafe area (with underfloor heating) will have power points for laptops and wifi connection. The coffee machine was just going in and by all accounts smells and tastes great! A treatment room for when you pull stuff, will ensure you get back on the wall quickly.

You can see for yourself at www.theclimbingacademy.com

Good Luck guys!!!!! Sam and Rich Orange

Discounts, Dates and Gaz Parry ................

2008-11-18T03:21:00.000-08:00

ALL CHANGE at The Orange House!

We have had a hard look at our prices and decided to help those visiting from the UK due to the exchange rate drop. We have taken all prices back to the same as 2005 and on top we have added a few more groups to the discount list.

Check out the main website theorangehouse for all the details, we are also giving more discounts for various groups, to include - teachers, AMA or AMI members, students etc

We have also been working on the diary for the next few months and more dates are been added all the time.

Gaz Parry is based at the house from 1st Jan so will be on-hand for one to one guiding, coaching. He will also be able to point you in the right direction should you have any questions about specific routes or areas.

Denia Bouldering Cave - Update!

2008-10-23T15:45:00.000-07:00

UPDATE - THANKS TO AL EVANS FOR CHECKING!

I reported last week that the whole area had gone into the sea. On the day I visited the water was washing all the way up the cliffs, I could see that the cave had GONE!

I didnt think anything would survive, but I was wrong, thanks to Al for going and checking, he reported that the main cliff is still boulderable, great news.

Take care if climbing here as the sea was washing all the way up the wall and it could have made some bits unsafe.

Hardest thing I´ve ever belayed!

2008-10-13T05:46:00.000-07:00

James and I first met at The Orange House three years ago, when he came out on our work exchange program. He stayed for free working for his food and lodgings, and he worked hard bless! We climbed together at all the steep crags, Wildside, Forada and even the odd secret crag. I remember thinking at the time that this young man would be good.

Fast forward to now, James is one of our MasterClass Coaches and a bright star in the traditional world pushing the limits and expanding what is thought possible in the UK.

I was on standby a few weeks ago to belay James on this project. The conversation with Dave Simmonite went something along these lines. “We´re getting up at 4am to start climbing at 5.30am, could I make it to the North Coast by 5am?”

This call came in at midnight and I had just driven all the back from Yorkshire. Luckily for me James found another belayer for the Alpine start, un-luckily for James he took a huge wiper from high up and had to wait to try another day.

After the light relief of the Costa Blanca DWS Festival, the call came again, but this time at a very reasonable midday. High tide at 6-ish should give us loads of time.

James hanging around over the Med....

I hadn´t seen this crag before, but I had seen photos and the video clips of James`s fall. Some crags have WOW factor when you first see them, some crags have scare factor. After careful inspection and some gained knowledge these factors usually diminish to the point where you think, “OK it´s not so bad, I´ll give it a go.”

This is different, on closer inspection the true nature of the confidence only gear, the non holds, the friable rock, a truly hideous landing and the threatening weather, all combine to push the wow and scare factors off my scale.

James rappels the lines and works the route, the Hot Aches crew set up cameras and rap lines, Dave sets up cameras with remote releases and enlists the help of Sam. Hours drift by and the tide starts to turn. Two passing climbers wonder over to see the circus and pass the time of day.

James raps the route one last time, the moves he makes on top rope somehow don´t seem real, flagging, lay backing, and dead pointing from nothing to nothing. I can´t see where the first piece of gear is either, my apprehension levels are maxing out.

Gearing up at the bottom, tide coming in fast!

I ask James if he has any special belay requests, he says, “if I come off in the first 15m don´t stop me, just lower me straight to the floor, the gear probably won´t hold anyway.”

A Hot Aches camera gets shoved in my face and the potent question gets fired, “How do I feel, about to belay James on the lead of his life? ” I know what they´re asking me, and I know why but James is in ear shot, and I really don´t want to psych him out. I reply, “looks fantastic, and James looks well strong and in control, I´m sure he can do it!” I know that´s not what they asked me, and the question gets fired again. I smile and in true politician style side step the question.

As James ties in and I put him on belay I glance nervously at the sea 50m closer than midday, only 10m more before I get wet. I form a strategy in my head for when the sea hits that boulder, I will reverse coil the ropes over my shoulder so they won´t get caught on the rock as they get washed, I´ll get wet, but no one ever died of wet, so that´s fine.

We looked at each other and I nodded. James sets off. Ten metres of rope paid out I spot him for the first 10m, then move out of the way, nothing I can do from that height. The micro goes in upside down, it would make a very poor upwards runner, but a non-existent downward runner, I stand ready to run forward and pay slack out. But there´s no need, he´s passed the crux and started throwing gear in. I breathed a sigh of relief.

Only 5 metres of dry land left, and James has 35 metres of climbing to go, I identify the highest rock to stand on, might give me 15 minutes more time.

David Simmonite doing what he does best!

James makes steady progress, and places gear at regular intervals, but I know it’s all rubbish and not likely to stop a fall. Rain squalls pass by to the North and South of us and the wind starts to gust. I willed him not to hang around and rest for too long.

Starting from the end of the ropes I started to coil them over my shoulder and jumped onto the highest rock. James looked down at me from a semi rest giving a thumb up sign, I smiled and give a reassuring return thumb. Wind and sea combine to drown out all verbal communications.

You can see the rain falling, poor James!

Light drops of rain started to fall, I swore under my breath and the sea engulf my rock turning it into a tiny island. Under my breath “come on James, you can do it!” The shower only last a few minutes and he´s off again. “Go James GO!” Belayers neck stinging hard, but this was where he fell from, I´m ready for the fall, make it as dynamic as possible, ready, eyes glued to James 40 metres above me.

The first wave hits the top of my rock turning it into dark green ice, feet flew out from under me, I looked down in shock landing heavily on my arse, SHIT! Snapped my head back to see if James had started the fall, had I pulled him off? He´s still there oblivious to my slip, I opt to evacuate, paid slack out and headed for higher ground. Thank God James topped out and disappeared.

Hardest and scariest thing I´ve belayed on.

One happy and relieved young man! Well done mate!

You can check out James´s full report on his blog - follow this link.

Deep Water Solo Festival Costa Blanca 08

2008-10-08T07:08:00.000-07:00

(Report written by Rich Mayfield )

The 14^th to 20^th of September saw our 4^th Deep Water Solo event, this time the organization went out to Rock and Rapid Adventures which meant our normal small gathering grew to over 40 people. Special guests included James Pearson and Gibbon Slacklines from Germany.

Monday we travelled to Cala Moraig which makes for an easy introduction to the sport, good food and beer at the beach cafes, ensured a mellow day.

Nice end to the first day!

Kayaks and pedalos bobbing about in the water, proved useful as a female member of the team jumped off the Cave of Pets and hurt her back. (note to self: must warm up before taking big jumps) 30 minutes later lying on the beach and she can´t move. The help of the local life guard is enlisted, who looks uncannily like the Fonzie from Happy days. Ehhhhhhh! An ambulance whisks her to hospital. She is kept in over night for observation.

James playing with the other boys

I´d bolted the arch a few months ago for the Slack liners but on inspection they seemed to have evaporated! Wheel brace from the van and the loan of two bolts from the other slack line saw us in action. 15m long and 2 m high, only the Gibbons can walk it but most of us give it a go anyway. The Fonzie, somewhat paranoid about our antics, watches from a distance and declines our offer for him to have a go.

Ambolo is the location for Tuesday, and the call goes out “Mankini DAY!” So a quick trip to Carrefour´s mankini section. Now Ambolo is a gay nudist beach and I have felt a little uncomfortable there on previous trips. But today was to be different, after mankini- ing up the locals decide to vacate our half of the beach. We mostly play on the small island just off the beach, a beautiful little arch a few metres high, a couple of sumps to swim through and another long slack line.

Wednesday was a day off to let the water logged skin recover slightly, Keith organized the Bridge swing at the Mascarat Gorge.

That evening was the Cowboys and saloon girls BBQ, only one naked (well he kept his chaps on) cowboy in the pool so we did well. Some guys turned up as cows, don´t think they really understood what was going on, but it did make us laugh.

Thursday I´m on the Penon de Ifach with two clients. Gibbon give a demo and early morning master class in Slack lining. The team head back to the main cave at Ambolo with all the inflatable’s they can muster. Gibbon are on a roll with another new line set up.

The last day came too soon and we headed back to Cala Moraig, James made short work of the 7b`s and c´s, we find an awesomely steep and pocketed prow but can´t quite complete it, it´ll still be there next year. By this stage most of us were starting to feel the strain. SO….. just enough time for one more party, Hugh Hefner night, the girls look fantastic and so did the boys dressed as girls enough said. Roll on next September!

Spot the odd one out!!

Summer Road Trip (What summer?)

2008-09-11T06:29:00.000-07:00

Would you trust these men?

After the horrible weather last summer I was convinced that this year was going to be great, no overseas trips for us! It all started so well, but that only lasted about 3 days. Simon a friend from Bristol had an idea to go out on his boat from Plymouth, not climbing I grant you, but a nice change and the sun was shining.

Cornwall called once summer holidays started so we headed South! I have not climbed Trad for years, in fact I cant remember the last time I actually put my rock shoes on! We decided to head all the way South and climb at Lands End. Rich choose Lands End Long Climb as he wanted to check it out for clients. What a great route, I loved it and it certainly gave me back a little bit of the climbing bug.

I laughed most of the way up!

Then off to Pembroke for a few days with Mikey Robertson, he is taking shots for the new Rockfax guide to Pembroke (out next year so watch this space) and needed the sun! we arrived to gray cloudy skies, but lunch time on day 2 and the sun came out and off he went in his little boat to get crag shots.

What a perfect day!

A crowd chilling on the cliffs, Meilee, Gav, Tim and Woody. You can read about the perfect day in Climber Magazine which is out in Oct in the Area roundup section.

Next on road trip is the new climbing wall Boulders in Cardiff with Rob and Ollie. The wall is amazing you can check out the photos on there website BOULDERS UK

North Wales was next on the map! Rich needed to get in some mountain days, and I refused to stay at home thinking I would be able to get some nice walking done whilst he scrambled around! we spent the first day in Llanberis and I counted 21 people in one day that came to say hello, all a bit strange. However, we met some great friends and made our way to The Climbers Club Hut for the week. The hut was busy so we decided to stay in our nice campervan, thinking we would get a better nights sleep, WRONG! the wind so so strong we though the van would blow over and the poor dogs spent the night with the tent flat ontop of them!

One thing I did was to walk to the top of Snowdon, why? I can blame my friend Helen, she found out I had not done it before! so up we went. I hated it from early on, too many people, too many in trainers and way too many screaming kids. Cloud on top killed any view and the building work on the new cafe made the whole experience one to forget.

Boy was I glad to get home to my own bed and at least today the sun is shining in Devon, maybe time to stop typing and take the dogs for a walk.............

Hard Rock Challenge Video Clip!

2008-08-06T07:03:00.000-07:00

Rich has started to produce the DVD of last years challenge. For those that don´t know what we did last summer then you can check out the blog which I updated the whole way around. HardRockChallenge blog

Rich has committed to having the final DVD ready for Kendal 2009 and also for sale. The DVD will give all profits to Mountain Rescue to help to reach our final total.

For those that kept up with the action then this short film clip should wet your whistle to see the whole thing.

We are hoping that many of our friends are coming down to see us in Devon on the 15th August for the Hard Rock Challenge Festival and SW Film Festival. It really will be a great weekend and with this lovely British Summer then why not come and support Mountain Rescue, see some great adventure films and listen to some amazing live music. Check out this website for more details of what you can see over the weekend Hard Rock Challenge Website

Online Gear Shop launch!

2008-06-24T14:06:00.000-07:00

Rock and Rapid Adventures have worked really closely with Orange House Spain and Orange House Climbing over the past few years so its nice to be able to help them promote there new ONLINE GEAR WEBSITE

Very shortly you will be able to book all Orange House Climbing Courses online...Watch this space!

Summer 2008 in the UK and Winter overseas........

2008-04-21T03:18:00.000-07:00

Exciting Summer coming up...

3 day Masterclasses in The Peak, Portland and Cornwall. Dust off your trad rack and get out in North Wales or Devon.

Anyone from 11 to 17, 3 day residential classes in North Devon, climbing and bouldering. We have booked The Mill Adventure Centre in North Devon for 3 days of climbing and bouldering for anyone aged between 11 and 17. Accommodation, breakfast and evening meal, all coaching by at least 2 of our Masters (to be confirmed later this month). These places are limited so please get in touch as soon as you can. email sam@theorangehouse.net or call 01752 690292 to chat with someone about your options.

Costa Blanca, Morocco or Thailand in the Winter. Check out the diary for choice of Venue or Who who you want to go climbing with, Steve McClure, Gaz Parry or James Pearson.

More dates and venues will be posted over the next few week, a Womens Week in Spain with Silvia Fitzpatrick and Thailand with Gaz over Dec and Jan....

May 26^th	5 days	Intro to Trad	Devon and Cornwall	Rich Mayfield	£525
June 6^th	3 days	Level 2 Sport	Portland	Mikey Robertson	£250
June 16^th	5 days	Intro to Trad	North Wales	Rich Mayfield	£525
July 8^th	3 days	Level 1 Sport	Peak District	Lucinda Hughes	£250
August 13^th	3 days	Residential Teenagers Coaching	The Mill Adventure Centre, South Molton, Devon	Masters to be confirmed	£150
Sep 22^nd	5 days	Level 1 Sport	Costa Blanca	James Pearson	£525
Oct 13^th	5 days	Intro to Trad	Costa Blanca	Rich Mayfield	£525
Oct 20^th	5 days	Level 1 Sport	Morocco	Master tba	£595
Oct 20^th	5 days	Level 2 Sport	Costa Blanca	Gaz Parry	£525
Oct 27^th	5 days	Level 2 Sport	Costa Blanca	Steve McClure	£525

Gaz Parry and James Pearson Dates for April.....

2008-02-14T04:53:00.000-08:00

Gaz is booked to come over here to The Costa Blanca for a Masterclass starting 1st April. Limited places so please email Sam or Keith as soon as you can.

I checked flights with Ryanair from Doncaster/Sheffield airport and they are only 1p with taxes!

James on The Groove, photo Dave Simmonite

´James Wonder Boy Pearson´ is also off to Font with us for a 5 days Masterclass, same dates as Spain, 1st April.

We are also planning a special weekend for Dartmoor with Leah Crane and Tom Newman so watch this space......

Steve McClure Costa Masterclass Feb 08

2008-02-03T10:56:00.000-08:00

Scroll Down for Climb Comp Winner....

6 guys arrived Saturday with one aim - to climb harder! Did they do it?

Important to stretch first!

Sam went to visit them on day three to check progress, " I have improved loads in just 2 days" said Simon Barby aged 18 "and I´m loving it".

Blue skies, perfect temps, what more could you ask for!

Steve McClure ran up 3 8as onsite at Echo One to show the boys how it is done! Rich Mayfield followed him, but thought that showing the boys how to fall off is just as important!

After 5 days of intense but enjoyable climbing the whole group gave me a massive thumbs up. "The mix of Steve and Rich made for an amazing combination of skills" said Matt.

Steve shows the boys how its done!

And Tom said "I would just like to say thanks for such an excellent few days. The climbing was awesome and we were all really impressed by the relaxed atmosphere at the Orange House. Having Steve with us was an incredible bonus!"

So all in all a great week was had by all........

The Orange House "Red sky at night".........

Winner of Climb Magazine Competition

Climb ran a competition in their last edition. Question was, What was the name of the book that Rich Mayfield climbed all the routes in, during the summer of 2007?

Answer : Hard Rock - the Ken Wilson 1974 classic.

Rich and Mark Stevenson raised more than 8K for Mountain Rescue, you can still donate here to keep the total going up! www.mountain.rescue.org.uk/giving/hard_rock.php

Berie Stott our amazing designer picked the winner this week from a very large list. Check out her website to see what other great work she does...

Thanks to all those that entered and the winner is .....

Rachael Patch from Hampshire

Rachel we will be in touch soon to arrange details with you for your prize - 2 places on a Sun Masterclass...

SPLASH! New year New beginnings!

2008-01-10T14:25:00.000-08:00

SPLASH!

It all started a few months ago over a few beers gathered around the swimming pool at The Orange House. How I wish that I had stayed retired 9 years when I first came to Spain, little did I know that the climbing scene sneaks under your skin!

Five years on and Orange House accommodation is going really great, we are full for most of the winter months with climbers, the summer months with families.

Rich Mayfield my husband and our number one guide is busy guiding and instructing and Ryan Glass MIA is also keeping out of trouble taking out Orange House Clients..

So why when everything is going so well would I want to shake all that up and start something new? well for those that know me they will laugh and say "sounds just like Sam"

I will blame Keith Crockford of Rock and Rapids and climbing photographer David Simmonite. They both said "we have a great idea! lets organise for the UK´s best coaches, to go to cool locations and get people to climb harder, whilst having a great holiday". Hmmm sounds like hard work to me.

Orange House Climbing was born and after a few months and lots of hard work from our designers point of view we have a great website and some fabby posters and Artwork. All thanks to the amazing Jon Tate and Berie Stott. Thanks guys we really do think you are stars! and we promise we will pay you when we make our first million.

I will update this blog often with discounts, special offers, photos from trips and lots and lots more.....